---

相當樂見版上越來越多防曬成分文
關於防曬的基本知識和成分介紹，我強烈推薦先看板上Amy大的部落格文章

防曬成分知識SUPER總整理
http://goo.gl/QBczMI

如果消化還算OK，行有餘力也把婊姐和防曬魔人的文章也拿來好好看一遍

你不認真看就注定曬成灰燼的防曬課程
http://goo.gl/RC0ypy

Adrien美魔男心得 - 防曬隔離
http://goo.gl/WKOC5A

對於不想曬黑曬老的人來說，防曬產品對於長波UVA的防護能力是非常重要的
然而這部分在目前的SPF或PA甚至PPD標示是完全看不出來
因此研究防曬成分有其必要

詳情請見邱品齊醫師的文章：

防曬品的防曬係數可信嗎？
http://goo.gl/5vMAV7



對於容易曬黑的人，好好的挑選防UVA的防曬就非常重要了，更何況曬不黑不代表沒有被長波UVA曬老


不過針對長波UVA的防曬成分也不是有添加就有效，還要看添加的濃度和配方搭配，所以最常看到的疑問是：「請問這樣子的濃度防曬力夠嗎？」
老實說沒有經過科學的檢測，沒有人能保證其防曬力，最保險的方式就是從已檢測的名單內挑選

防曬產品係數測試報告彙整
http://goo.gl/hCLQki

但很多口碑良好的防曬品還不在這份名單內
所以我們就要學習看成分濃度來「推測」其合理的長波UVA防曬力

警告：本篇整理專注在防曬力，關於化學防曬成分的安全議題也相當重要，
請詳見版上antioxidant寫的「化學性防曬成分8大類」一文

以下是有效防禦長波UVA的防曬成分：

Zinc Oxide (氧化鋅) 290nm-400nm(380nm) 衛生署 2.0-20.0%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone、Parsol 1789) 320nm-400nm 衛生署上限 5.0%

Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 280nm-400nm 衛生署上限 10%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 280nm-400nm 衛生署上限 10%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 320nm-400nm 衛生署上限 10%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 290nm-400nm 衛生署上限 10%


http://i.imgur.com/pghgXVy.jpg

上圖列出了各種防曬劑的紫外線穿透圖
大家可以對照一下，了解各個成分的防禦波長和強度



Avobenzone = BMBM (S66)
Tinosorb M = MBBT (S79)
Tinosorb S = BEMT (S81)
Uvinul A Plus = DHHB (S89)
Mexoryl SX = TDSA (S71)

但是這些成分到底要添加多少才有足夠的長波UVA防曬力呢？
就目前手邊可以觀察的資料就是邱品齊醫師的檢測報告，我找出了該報告大部分的化學性防曬成分濃度
（物理性的我家附近藥妝店找不太到，若知道詳細濃度的版友可以提供）
大家可以對應一下該產品的測試結果，進而來產生一定的概念

不過在看整理之前，我們要來了解一下邱品齊醫師檢測報告所採用的標準

Boots Star Rating ★星級標示


臨界波長 (Critical wavelength)


的UVB比重相對較多，導致比值較低，不代表長波UVA的防禦能力一定弱，兩種標示搭配看會較準確


PS.當然最好的情況是拿到各個防曬產品的紫外線穿透圖，並且用疊圖的方式，這樣誰強誰弱一目了然，只是一般消費者很難看到這方面的資料

以下就是邱品齊醫師檢測名單（大部分）的防曬成分濃度整理：


BOOTS STAR ★★★★、CW = 381nm

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 3%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 3.5%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 3%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 0.495%


BOOTS STAR ★★★★、CW = 381nm

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 9%

Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 4%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 3%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 2%


BOOTS STAR ★★★★、CW = 381nm

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (水楊酸乙基己酯) 5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 3.5%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 2.91%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 2.5%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 1%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 0.96%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 0.5%


BOOTS STAR ★★★、CW = 378nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 7.4925%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 6%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 2.4750%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 2%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 1.5%


BOOTS STAR ★★★、CW = 379nm

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (水楊酸乙基己酯) 5%

Homosalate (甲基水楊醇) 5%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 4%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 3%

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole) 2%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 1%

Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 1%

Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) 0.5%


BOOTS STAR ★★★、CW = 377nm

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 9.99%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 7.5%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 5%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 1%

Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 1%


BOOTS STAR ★★★、CW = 376nm

Zinc Oxide (氧化鋅) 13.96%

Titanium Dioxide (二氧化鈦) 未標示濃度


BOOTS STAR ★★★、CW = 375nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 10%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 5%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 4.5%


BOOTS STAR ★★、CW = 378nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 7.5%

Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) 3%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 3%

Titanium Dioxide (二氧化鈦) 2.67%

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole) 2%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 0.5%


BOOTS STAR ★★、CW = 377nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 6.7433%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 2%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 2%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 1%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 1%


BOOTS STAR ★★、CW = 376nm

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 6%

Titanium Dioxide (二氧化鈦) 3.32%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 7.4925%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 2.4750%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 1.5%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 375nm


Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 10%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 1.8%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 1.2%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 1%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 371nm

Zinc Oxide (氧化鋅) 10.33%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 8%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 2%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 0.5%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 371nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 9%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 0.8%

Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 7%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 368nm (星號標示有出入)

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 10%

Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 3.5%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 2.8%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 2.5%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 368nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 9.999175%

Polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX) 2.5%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 1.7%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 0.7%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 365nm

Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 5%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 7.49475%

Homosalate (甲基水楊醇) 5%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 5%

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole) 1%

說好的阻隔十大UV光線呢？


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 365nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 9%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 3%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 2%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 358nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 7.4870056%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 3%

Polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX) 3%

Zinc Oxide (氧化鋅) 2.79%

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole) 1%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 0.497%


BOOTS STAR ★、CW = 357nm

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 5%

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (Neo Heliopan AP) 4%

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole) 3.6%


看完這些整理以後，我個人歸納出以下幾點：

1.防曬成分與足夠的濃度只是防曬力的必要條件，並非充分條件

2.濃度太低要有足夠的保護力也很難

3.不同成分所需要的濃度不太相同，像Avobenzone只需要3%就可以有不錯的防護效果

4.臨界波長要達到380nm以上，最好同時有Avobenzone與Tinosorb M

5.不同系統（美式配方PARSOL 1789、萊雅式配方Mexoryl、Tinosorb家族)）之間的混搭
應該是未來趨勢



最後手癢再貼幾瓶測試外的防曬成分濃度：


Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 7%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 4%

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB) 4%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 2%

評：這支是新改版的，單看成分可能會超越舊版，希望廠商會送驗



Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 5%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 4.5%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 4%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 2.5%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 2%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 0.495%

評：Avobezone很高也有穩定劑，不過最好測試會否過敏或燻眼



Ethylhexyl Salicylate (水楊酸乙基己酯) 5%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 3%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 3%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 3%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 2.5%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 0.99%

評：無線電的陽春版，防曬力應該也有一定水準



Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 5%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 3%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 3%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 1%

評：防曬力應該足夠日常生活使用



Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 7.4925%

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 3.96%

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 3%

評：非常萊雅式的配方，可能要注意光穩定的問題



Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 5.5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 3%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 未標示濃度

評：這支的臨界波長應該也不低，但Tinosorb S濃度未知，若太低則340nm以下波段防禦力會不夠



Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 2%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 0.8%

Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) 0.8%

評：最近版上推文超常出現，但這支應該是保濕乳液吧？



Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 5%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 2%

Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) 2%

評：擦了這支應該就會很需要同系列的美白產品



Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 7.494%

Polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX) 5%

Octocrylene (歐托奎雷) 3%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 3%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 2%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobezone) 1.5%

評：比戶外藍瓶好，雪芙姐可以放心擦了



Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (桂皮酸鹽) 8.484%

Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) 1%

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S) 1%

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus) 0.7%

評：很清爽的助曬乳液




--
--
※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.cc), 來自: 61.230.47.173
※ 文章代碼(AID): #1LPfXlTw (BeautySalon)
※ 文章網址: https://www.ptt.cc/bbs/BeautySalon/M.1432787055.A.77A.html